Figuring out of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, for plenty of years now, the mannequin Edouard Koehn carries 4 distinct collections. Of express curiosity is the model launched in 2021 as part of the World Heritage line, mixing two wise issues: world time and alarm options. Whereas plenty of mechanical watches present mixtures of an alarm with a GMT or twin time presentthe fusion of alarm and world time is a rarity inside the horological world. In 2023, Edouard Koehn launched a restricted model World Heritage II assortment, sustaining the similar thought and underlying movement whereas offering a up to date presentation for lovers to find; we had a hands-on experience, and listed under are our impressions.
First, only a few phrases regarding the determine. Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker and at one time the co-owner of Patek, Philippe & Cie (a specialist of world time watches…) A popularity with roots tracing once more to the nineteenth century, it resurfaced inside the fashionable watchmaking scene in 2020 due to Bernard F. Fleury, a seasoned veteran inside the commerce acknowledged for his work as a result of the CEO of Vulcain inside the early 2000s (a specialist of alarm watches…), the place he carried out a serious operate in reviving the mannequin’s fame contained in the commerce. Bernard Fleury discovered a watch bearing Edouard Koehn’s determine at an public sale; further evaluation led to fascinating discoveries, thrilling adequate to influence Fleury of the determine’s potential and rights purchased in 2015. Edouard Koehn produces two collections: a updated chronograph known as Tempus and the World Heritage watches with widespread time and alarm options.
The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II assortment we take a look at proper now consists of 5 references, primarily distinguished by the colour of the dial. The model is housed in a 42mm diameter case with a primary and stylish design, nonetheless, crafted from grade 5 titanium and measures 14.5mm in peak. It choices sapphire crystal on both sides and has a water resistance guarantee of as a lot as 50 meters.
The bezel, showcasing a notable thickness, gleams with a refined finish, harmonizing with the rest of the surfaces. The curved lugs seamlessly mix with the middle case, whereas the caseback is securely mounted by six screws. The crown positioned at 2 o’clock is adorned with the mannequin’s wind rose picture and serves the wants of winding, time setting and adjusting the world disc. At 4 o’clock, the crown, marked with a bell picture, is dedicated to setting and winding the alarm. Every crowns operate fluting for easy coping with. No matter its substantial dimension, the watch is weightless, due to the utilization of sturdy however lightweight titanium, making sure a cosy sporting experience – one factor that might presumably be a bit puzzling at first, as a result of the watch is significantly lighter than its dimension would enable you to consider. Using titanium contributes to optimum acoustics for the alarm function, highlighting the consideration given to every kind and efficiency.
Whereas the case design exudes simplicity, the dial of the World Heritage II assortment unveils an interesting intricacy. Provided in a palette of ice blue, silver, inexperienced, blue, and anthracite, each dial is constructed spherical a central disc that features a raised image of the world’s northern hemisphere. This central disc is encircled by a hoop that reveals locations representing different time zones. Notably, London is highlighted by a crimson triangle, denoting its important GMT zone, whereas Paris supplies resolution to Geneva, perhaps a nod to city’s heightened significance for the watchmaker.
Adjoining to the central disc with the map and time zone locations ring, which completes a full rotation in 24 hours, is a 24-hour mounted ring. The sunshine grey half represents day hours (7 to 17), whereas the black portion signifies night hours (18 to 6). Notably, the 12 o’clock place is marked with a photo voltaic image, symbolizing noon, whereas the 24 o’clock place features a crescent, signifying midnight. One different vital side is the coloured guilloche ring, housing the outer minutes monitor and utilized hour indices. Faceted and polished indices are filled with Great-LumiNova for enhanced visibility in low-light circumstances. The 12 o’clock index is modified by a proud present of the mannequin’s metallic wind rose emblem, which could be utilized, though it doesn’t illuminate at nighttime.
The central alpha-type hour and minutes fingers with Great-LumiNova are adjusted with the devoted crown in place 3; the stop-second function is a plus as a result of it permits for precise time setting. In place 2, this crown quickly adjusts the world time disc. Naturally, your time zone have to be aligned alongside along with your current hour on the 24-hour ring; then, you will get an accurate learning of hours somewhere else worldwide.
Lastly, the World Heritage II outermost ring is graduated for 15-minute intervals per hour, serving the intention of setting the alarm. To activate the alarm function, the crown at 4 o’clock have to be pulled to position 2. The central hand, adorned with a crimson arrowhead, can then be rotated counterclockwise to set the desired alarm time. Furthermore, winding the designated alarm barrel is achieved with the crown in place 1. Activating the alarm requires pulling the crown to position 2 – an environment friendly adequate reply for using the watch as a wake-up title, even when it’s not most likely essentially the most wise one when the watch is worn – push the crown once more by likelihood, and also you may be in hassle.
By the clear sapphire crystal caseback, the automated EK-MVTWTA01 calibre reveals meticulous finishes, along with perlage, Geneva stripes adorning the ball-bearing-mounted central oscillating mass, sunburst finish on the wheels and blued screws.
Developed in collaboration with Concepto, an neutral producer renowned for crafting high-end mechanical actions in La Chaux-de-Fonds, this calibre is derived from the A. Schild AS5008 base and presents quite a lot of intriguing choices. It features a double-double barrel which concurrently winds the watch and the alarm options – a typical configuration. Nonetheless, what items it apart is the central automated rotor’s means to wind every barrels, each in its respective route. The EK-MVTWTA01 calibre boasts a 48-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour.
To complete the ensemble, Edouard Koehn pairs the World Heritage II watches with an alligator leather-based strap (22mm), on the market in different coloration selections to counterpoint each dial variant, secured to the wrist by a deployment buckle that features security push buttons. Restricted to 88 watches per coloration variant, Edouard Koehn’s World Heritage II in all equity priced at CHF 8,500 – which feels pretty truthful for such a fancy watch with an intricate dial and a titanium case.
For further, please go to www.edouardkoehn.com.
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